30 July 1995

HAITI

We roared around the corner, swerved around a pothole big enough to eat a bus, emergency lights flashing, and went hell-for-leather out of Port Au Prince towards the desolate country near the border. We tried to stay close behind the black sedan that carried the Congressman, his Staffer and the party power-broker who had made this all happen.

The further we got out of town the fewer potholes we encountered. The Peugeot spun wheels on the soft gravel of the road and threw a rooster tale of dust behind us. The young African man at the wheel held his arms rigid, but the beating the front end had taken make his arms shake like he had Saint Vitis Dance. Beside us the surface of a slate-gray lake was placid, the low hills beyond them barren, anything combustible long gone as fuel for cooking. Small boats smuggling fuel down towards the City made a brave profile in the morning, triangular sails bright in the low, soft light. The lake was lovely from this vantage. You could see no poverty, or pain, or even a mounting international imperative.

It was just a place, and a pretty one, where the light reflected against the green and gray hills that ran away to the northwest. We could see the Haitian border checkpoint to the right, low crude cinder block buildings that once had been painted pastel pink and were now going gray. Brett pointed over the ear of our burly Haitian Armed Forces guard who sat impassively in the right front seat. The FAH'D had been with us every step of the way on this trip. The rosy light of dawn was growing over the dark green Dominican mountains looming ahead.

"Look!" he said, leaning forward against his lap belt. I could see a cloud of something rising behind the trees. I yelled back: "the helos are landing at Jimani!"
I squinted into the dawn and saw the billows of yellow dirt rising against the sun, just as they had the morning before as we plunged down out of the 21st century into the 19th. It seemed an eon before, all the action crammed into thirty-odd hours. This was good. The vision before us meant almost certainly that we were going to live, and absent some mischance associated from the armed men around me, we would be home later in the same day.

I wondered if Pierre Cardin saw it the same way. That was the nom de guerre of our FAD'H Officer Guard. He and his people had done exactly what they promised. They were professional and mostly prompt, even if their jackets did not button well across their pistols. A few minutes and we would be done with him and his guns. But he was staying. The knot in my stomach began to unwind a bit. There was just a border crossing to go, a rendezvous with the nice American helicopter people, a flight back to Santo Domingo. A meeting with ancient Presidente Juan Joquime Balaguer and the opposition leader and then onto a little Navy jet and back to the capital of the Free World. Then the island of Hispaneola would be far away and we could take the message from General Cedras back to the President's people. Maybe we would invade then and maybe we wouldn't.

The General told the Congressman that he would go quietly, he just wanted to go with some measure of dignity. The thug Biambi leaned over and said he wasn't a thug. His family had feelings, after all. Would our President's people buy the deal? Had we got what we had come for?

The Dominican General with the fat neck and piggy eyes greeted us on his side of the border and we sat with him on kitchen chairs placed in the middle of the road and exchanged pleasantries. I could hear the whine of the Bell JetRangers and just wanted to get going. I admired the Congressman. Whether he was flirting with a pretty girl or earnestly talking to some tin-pot dictator he was always on message. When we were finally back in American hands, the young civilian crewman handed us bottles of designer water from a cooler. The cover for this enterprise was an executive ferry service, like there were any executives in this neck of the woods. The crew worked for somebody spooky and seemed to be enjoying themselves. We lifted off from the Landing Zone and the troops and curious kids grew smaller and finally disappeared.

From a height, you couldn't see that anything was wrong at all.