April 2, 1903

Hotel “Cecil” Thursday evening

We hired a two-wheel carriage for 3 horses to attend to our business., secure staterooms, call at the store, Ludgate Circle, Cooks, Post Office, Cable home, sightseeing, and at this hotel- we have a fine large room, to brass beds and meals outside one each for day- Dr. S and I riding on the top of omnibuses, seeing the sights.

The tourists made a sound choice in lodging. The Hotel Cecil was built between 1890-96, and stood on the Thames Embankment where Shell Mex House stands today. It was the largest hotel in London in its time, with 800 rooms, lavishly decorated by Maples, Waring (later to become Waring and Gillow) and Schoolbreds. It was especially popular with Americans and businessmen, of which W.E. Socotra and Dr. Shall were exemplars.

Friday, April 3:

Hotel “Cecil”

Slept until 8 a.m. Shaved, had breakfast and went out sightseeing. We leave tonight 8.30 for Hamburg, Germany, to spend Sunday among Lutherans.

Hamburg, Germany

Saturday night, April 4. 03

Streits Hotel- raining

We left London last night 8.30 p.m. for Harwich (70 miles) per express- reaching there 10 p.m. and then crossed the English Channel (100 miles) to the Hook of Holland in a large boat.- stateroom small. Dr. Stall taking the lower bunk and I the upper- at 4.30 a.m. we were called. Had breakfast 5 a.m. Was examined by Customs Officer, all “OK.” And came on to Rotterdam (Holland) where we spent an hour (6 to 7 a.m.) seeing the ships in the canals, through the streets, etc, crossed from one station to the other, so that we could get an express train (as they put us on the wrong train) for Hamburg. We have passed Utrecht, Amersfoort Apeldoorn, where the Queen of Holland has her Summer Residence. (Hague is her winter home) Apeldoorn Denenter. Almelo Hengelo. Oldenzaal Benthiem (now we are in Germany and are once more examined by Customs House Officers) Rheine, Offenburen, Osnabruck. Bremen and now Hamburg.

We enjoyed our dinner on the train today and enjoyed our RR companions. Father and son going to school- Sea Captain returning home after 18-month absence- Frenchman- German all pleasant and jolly- have nice room 4th floor at this Hotel overlooking the River Front- beautiful view. Have written home and now ready for bed. 9.45 p.m.

Pilgrimage to Hermannsburg

The village of Hermannsburg is located in what was then the Kingdom of Hannover. The Hermannsburg Missionary Society was founded in 1849 by Louis Harms, a visionary of extraordinary gifts, a Lutheran mystic, if you will. He spearheaded a Christian revival in large areas of Northern Germany. Part of his message was the need for missionaries to be sent out into the world, to teach the heathens about God and his son Jesus Christ.

After having investigated various possibilities for training missionaries and having found none suitable, he decided to open his own seminary in the town where he was the pastor. The first group of young men was trained by 1853, and were sent to Africa on the SS Kandaze, funded entirely from donations. The initial idea was to reach the Galla tribe in Ethiopia, but the entry was blocked by the Sultan of Mombassa, who did not want Christian missionaries in his dominions.

The missionaries had seen Port Natal on a short stop on their way around the Cape, and with the way to Ethiopia blocked, decided to return there. Accordingly, they decided to concentrate on the conversion of the Zulus of Natal instead. They established their first base at New Hermannsburg, which was located just within the Colony of Natal on the border to the Zulu Kingdom. With the help of Missionary Schreuder of the Norwegian Lutheran Mission, they soon established a string of mission stations throughout Zululand.

Within a few years, the entry into Ethiopia was re-attempted but was again blocked. Instead, new thrusts in the missionary work were directed at India and Australia (where the station Hermannsburg was established on the Finke River close to Alice Springs). After the First World War, both the Indian and Australian areas were given up in favor of British or American Societies.

Streit’s Hotel Hamburg Germany

Sunday, April 5 1903:

Enjoyed good nights rest. Up at 8 a.m. Shaved, had breakfast 9 a.m. and then went to St. Peter German Lutheran Church of Hambur- Pastor Walter. Called at his house and he told us how to go to Hermannsburg (Lewis Hermes (sic)- the missionary) Enjoyed our hotel dinner and took the train at 2.40 p.m. from Hamburg for Hermannsberg- 3rd class- next round trip- about 75 mile. Dr. S talking Dutch to the German passengers. Sun shining when we left Hamburg. We passed in North Germany: Winsen, Bardoweik, Luneburg, Benensen, Uelzen, Gudenberg and Unternuese, where we got off the train at 5.30 p.m.- no stage- no person to speak English- Dr. Stall steps up and talk to the Gate Keeper, who takes us to the Hotel, where se see men drinking beer.

Two horses in a wagon with a Driver to take us to Hermannsburg abut 8 miles away for 9 marks trhough Rain, Sleet & Cold. Arriving there 7.45 p.m. the Hotel keeper understands Dr. S talking Dutch- we engage a youn man as a guide (2 marks) order supper for 8.30 p.m. Call on Rev. T.T.G. Ehlors Pastor of the new Sutt Church at Hermannsburg- 2000 members- They were eating supper, would have us come out and eat and talk, which we enjoyed and will never forget, as his wife was from Sweden. He and son took us down to see his large plain church- large pipe organ, etc by using candles to give us light – came to the hotel, had our supper and then 9.15 was taken to see Pastor Fr. Peathner of the old church- 1200 members- who talked a little English- was then taken to the old church 1,000 years old, Dr. Stall and I stood in Pastor Lewis Harmer pulpit at 10 p.m. quaint old church. Old pews & organ- very interesting, but the light of a lantern, thick walls (12 families in one house) and then the guide took us to the cemetery at 10.30 p.m. Moon and stars shining, found Pastor Harmes grave and stood with our heads uncovered in honor of the good dead missionary.

They have now50 missionaries in Africa, 10 missionaries in India, and 20 preparing to enter the field. On our way back to the hotel it clouded over and rained a little. Retired at 11 p.m. Put to bed in a large double room – fire made, yet cold- could see your breath- no covers on the bed, but two sheets and a Featherbed, Dr. Stall awoke at 4 a.m. sweating, called me, had to cool off, up at five, Breakfast at 5.30 our bill for supper, lodging & breakfast for Dr. S and I was 9 marks ($2.25) Took photo of the old church 6 a.m. and in our hurry to get off with the “Post,” (mail stage or omnibus) we left Dr. S’s heavy old overcoat. Took picture of the “Post” stage and the good country road- the station master at Internen spoke English. Said he would send up the overcoat tonight. Met German artillery Soldier and others on the train, Dr. S talked German- back to Hamburg at 10.30 a.m. Monday.

Rauhes Haus Boys Home at Hamburg- April 6, 1903:

After having a good dinner at the Streits Hotel, for we were hungry (breakfast at 5.30 a.m.) we spent from 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. visiting these 26 buildings and grounds which we enjoyed. Here is where poor (Lutheran) boys 4-16 years old are placed to learn trades, etc. They arise at 5 a.m. Breakfast 6 a.m. Chapel 7 a.m. Study 7.30 to 12. Dinner 1.30 to 4.00 Study, then work until 6 p.m. Supper. Chapel 7 p.m. Study. Bed. Their oxen, cows, hogs etc were fine- each one has their own little garden to attend.

Streits Hotel Hamburg

Monday Evening 4.6.03

I am getting ready to leave here- have been pleased in Germany – Like the Tile Roofs on the Houses and barns – some places both together, harvest barn. Also the good government roads, better than our pikes, and always so level- The hotel “Lift” (elevator) is run by water and moves slowly- as it is raining, we are spending the time at the Hotel, writing letters, “mem” notes etc. Also reading N.Y Herald (Paris Edition on Sunday). The linen sheets are buttoned down to the bed comforts on our bed- We notice the soldiers, with guns as guards at every government road crossing- the boats on the River Elbe arte a pretty sight from our Hotel window. 10.00 p.m. Dr S’s heavy overcoat just came, by post mail. Price 12 cents-

Tuesday April 7 1903, 9 a.m.
Just leaving Hamburg for Copenhagen- When on the cart we see a slot machine, place in 10 pfennig (2 ½ cents) and receive a towel, soap, medicated toilet paper. The 2nd Class is very good- corduroy plush-

1st Class cost 6.00

2nd “ “ 4.00

3rd “ “ 2.00

We passed Elmshorn, Neumunster- after two hour ride in the cart we come to Kiel, Germany- 300,000 population

Tuesday April 7, 03 11 a.m.

Here we see the special Blue and White train, used by Emperor of Germany, King Wilhelm 2nd and his party- crowd at the station- on ship boat to Korsor (3,000 population) for 5 ½ hour ride on boat. We see the King’s yacht, pass the warship Keiser Frederick II.

Customs House officers examine our baggage- then by rail 2 ½ hours to Copenhagen, where we arrive at 7 p.m. On the train we meet a Copenhagen man who lived in the West (3 years, USA)

King of Denmark Hotel in Copenhagen, and it is Weds, April 8th, 1903.

“Up at 6 a.m., shave and breakfast- then out driving from 8.30-9.45 a.m. visited stores , King’s Palace, a fine church built and presented to the city by a once poor boy who had become very rich- photos of church taken- this being the King’s (Christian 9th) 85th Birthday, the flag of Denmark was to be seen everywhere floating.

We reached Helsinger, Denmark at 11.00 a.m. Helingborg Sweden by boat at 12.30, then on to Helmstad where the train stopped 20 minutes for dinner and beer at 3 p.m. Price 60 cents- each one helps himself, eats all you can or as little as you wish, all the same price (60c) better than a Penna Flitting.

Denmark is a fine agricultural country, raise cattle, buy lots (of ) American grain, and sell over 26 million dollars worth of butter, besides eggs. The cattle are stabled during the winter- land in a high state of cultivation- people prosperous- saw numerous Fjords (Bays). The houses in the country mostly brick, one story high with roofs thatched with straw- grain stored in dwelling house under the roof. We notice American agriculture implements or machinery extensively imported and used-

In Copenhagen we met Mr. Ed Schoyen, a teacher of English, a Norwegian by birth, who overheard us speaking to the Police and who used good English, showed us around the city.

In the morning I purchased a (Copenhagen) national souvenir spoon for Nellie (5.50 Kroner) after having our Dinner at Helmstaf (3 p.m.) we went to Goteborg, Norway, Mellerud, Kornsjo, Christiania, Kongsvinger, etc. Took a photo of train from Copenhagen to Christiana. Supper at 9 p.m. price 40- “help yourself,” not as good as the dinner. Beds made up when we ret’d to Cars- went to bed- slept well.”

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