1903,

Part I: Pennsylvania to London onboard the good ship SS Mesaba

Editor’s Note: These words, composed of digits harvested in the 21st Century, reflect the private thoughts of the owner of a general merchandise shop in SE Pennsylvania just around the turn of a previous century. He writes in small notebooks with crimson leather covers and they survived four generations of the Socotra family. In this chapter, Mr. William E. Socotra and his small party of adventurers heads east from the New World to an older one.

– Vic
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March 19, 1903:

Left home Thursday, 1.25 P.M. on the train. Met Mr. William Brass, Mr. Morris Hinkle and Mr. R.E. Shearer, of Carlisle. Met Aunt Eva and girl at Carlisle. Very pleasant- At Coutesville met Mr. Shelly (spice man) who came and Philadelphia- 6 P.M. and then to New York, due in at 8.15. Bevy (Savoy?) Central Hotel 8.45 P.M.

Friday, March 20:

Bought goods at Calhoun Robbins & Co, J.H. Dunham & Co. & H.B. Claflin Co.

Saturday, 21 March

Was to sail at 10 a.m., but owing to heavy fog, did not leave until 2.33 P.M., W.E. Clark and his wife (Mrs. Fanny Stall Clark) were down to see us off. Also Mr. Roy Stall of Philadelphia was over to say good-bye.

Editor’s Note: Socotra was traveling via the Atlantic Transport Line, with eastbound tickets aboard the Mesaba. The ATL had been incorporated in 1881 by Bernard Baker of the Baltimore Storage & Lighterage Co. Although he was an American citizen, Baker operated as a British company as a flag of convenience. He began initial service between Barrow and New York and the following year, opened up a route between Amsterdam and New York under charter to the Royal Netherlands Steamship Company Co.

In only two years, regular London – Baltimore voyages commenced in 1883 and a London – New York service started in 1890. In 1896, ATL took over the fleet and assets of the National Line, and although an American company, was effectively British operated. The solution to this in America was to form the Atlantic Transport Company of West Virginia in 1898 to acquire the assets and ships of ATL, and to build and own their own American-flagged ships.

For financial reasons, the existing fleet continued under the British flag, but was American controlled. The year after W.E. traveled to Europe, the company came under the control of the International Mercantile Marine Company. The Jones Act of 1920 later mandated ships carrying goods between American ports had to be built in the United States, owned by American interests and crewed by a majority of American citizens.

Mesaba was a four-masted steamer of 6,388 tons and one stack. Beyond transporting merchants across oceans, Mesaba had brushes with greatness and tragedy in her service life. She began her service life as the SS Winifreda, and in 1898 was purchased from Wilson’s & Furness-Leyland Line by the ATL. Renamed the Mesaba (all but one of the ATL’s liners had names that started with the letter “M”), she operated on the profitable London-to-New York circuit.

Nine years after W.E. Socotra traveled in her, Mesaba’s radioman Stanley Adams had an exchange with the Royal Mail Ship Titanic on that superliner’s only voyage. On 14 April, 1912 at 9:30 p.m., Adams tapped out:

“S.S. Mesaba to R.M.S. Titanic and All Eastbound Ships:

Ice report: In latitude 42 N to 41.25 N, longitude 49 W to 50.3 W. Saw much heavy pack ice and great number of large icebergs, also field ice. Weather good, clear”.

9.35 p.m.
R.M.S. Titanic to S.S. Mesaba:
“Received, thanks.”

9.38 p.m.
S.S. Mesaba to R.M.S. Titanic:
“Stand by.”

Adams waited for Titanic’s radioman Jack Philips to indicate the message had been given to the captain. Philips did not respond. He was frantically trying to raise the wireless station at Cape Race to notify them that the mighty ship had struck an iceberg and was sinking.

Mesaba was doomed, too, though not from ice. In 1918, the Germans torpedoed her in the St. George Channel. She went to the bottom with the loss of twenty lives.

But all that was in the future with armies marching and submarines prowling below the waves.

On the morning of 21 March, 1903, the world was at peace. Socotra and the Good Doctor ventured uptown in Manhattan from Mesaba’s berth at Pier 39, at the foot of West Houston Street. The goal was to visit the Holy Trinity Church and start the journey with righteous energy. The Lutheran congregation had been active in New York since just after the American Civil War, 1861-65. The group had funded a magnificent new church at the corner of 65th Street and Central Park West.
The new building was well along in construction. The cornerstone had been laid November 9, 1902 and the Church would be dedicated on May, 10, 1904. The structure, with its sanctuary furniture and ornamentation, was designed by William Schickel, a native of Germany and a New York architect of national reputation noted for his church buildings. With its signature steeple, rose window and red doors, Holy Trinity Lutheran Church made a powerful statement of optimism and robust hope. It is still a visible presence near what is now Lincoln Center.

Part of the motivation for the Grand Tour was to enable the Lutheran Church to thrive. Founded in 1868, new energy was harnessed by thing’s like this version of the Grand Tour and illuminated establishment of the formal vestry building in 1904. It remains today at its home on Central Park West near Lincoln Center, still at the forefront of music, liturgy, and service in New York City.

It should come as no surprise that the Present takes on the Past these days. Holy Trinity is a “Reconciling in Christ (RIC) congregation.” It welcomes all persons in Christ’s name regardless of sexual orientation, race, ethnic origin, gender, class or other possible exclusionary distinctions. Today, the congregation seeks an “active commitment to inclusiveness in membership, evangelism, and social outreach.”

Socotra wrote in his notebook 120 years ago:

This morning Dr. Stall and I were up to see Rev. C. Armand Miller of the Holy Trinity Church of the Holy Trinity Church Ghent Council- He enjoyed our first meal (dinner, 6:30 P.M.) on the Mesaba and as we struck low water off Sandy Hook, owing to the fog, we waited for six hours for the tide to rise.

Sunday, March 22- Up at seven A.M. Hot salt-water bath- breakfast at 8.30- Sunday Services at 10.30- Church of England- no sermons. Lunch at 1 P.M. slept in the afternoon, dinner at 6.30 P.M. Very foggy, looks for clearing weather, stars now shining. Dr. Stall, who is so agreeable, pleasant entertaining, has had me walk a great deal, to avoid sea sickness- to bed 11 P.m.

Monday, 23 March:

Up at 7 A.M. Had my hot salt-water bath, enjoy, and my breakfast, including fresh ripe strawberries- thus far I have not been seasick- the ocean is smooth, and good sailing- pleasant boat to ride on- full cargo over 10,000 tons. Boat sailed 314 miles yesterday, slight winds, clear weather- the Gulf Stream has made it Summer. We have enjoyed our deck chairs- thus far I have not been sea-sick- enjoyed every meal!

Tuesday, 24 March:

Up at seven A.M. had my bath, enjoyed my breakfast, letter from home, walk on deck and slight winds and clear weather, sun shining. Dr. Stall is so pleasant and entertaining a companion that I am enjoying my ocean voyage. Traveled 322 miles yesterday- Have not been seasick.

Wednesday, 25 March:

Had a very good night’s rest, called at 7 a.m., had my saltwater bath, walk on deck, good breakfast, nice weather. Spent the day on deck- Seeing the cattle, horses etc. After dinner 6.30, I accompanied Mr. Rob’t Evans, Chief Steward, down to the Cold Storage Room. Oh! The meat, fruit, ice cream, etc. Enjoy my meals, 316 miles.

Thursday, March 26:

Good night’s rest, called 7 a.m., bath, hot water tea. Walk on deck, good breakfast then the Engineer Chief asked me to accompany him down “below,” to see the vessel’s machinery. Oh! The lots of machinery, the engines using 90 tons of soft coal every day, the engine for electric lighting, the engine for ice refrigeration. I am well and enjoying myself, why not when I had at:

7a.m. cup hot water.

8.30 a.m. Breakfast

11 a.m. Beef tea wafer on deck chair

1 p.m. lunch

4 p.m. Cup tea, wafer snaps

6.30 p.m. dinner, all of which I have enjoyed today. Fresh winds, moderate high sea and cloudy weather tonight. Sailed 315 miles yesterday.

Friday March 27:

Good night’s rest, stormy, sea rocked, baggage slid across the stateroom. Had my bath, a good breakfast, and ready for the deck. I am well. High winds storm at sea. Waves 30 feet high- sights I will never forget- plates slip off the table eight feet away.

At 11 a.m. lunch and at dinner 6.30 once I had to hold my plate containing my dinner to keep it from sliding off the table- They dampen the table cloth to keep the dishes in their places.

Saturday March 28:

The Storm is over, and we are safe. Good night’s rest- rolled in bed- up at 7 a.m., bath, walk on deck, good breakfast, sun shining- I will never forget the sights at seas yesterday during the storm and yet I was not afraid- just had my Sunday shave, and ready for a game on the deck- Shuffle Board!

10 Off

6 1 8

7 5 3

2 9 4

10 On

Nice day on deck- laying out our plans through Europe- Enjoy my meals- good boarding- a week away from home, and this afternoon saw the first vessel passing “Crown Prince Wilhelm” of the North German-Loyd Line (30,000 horsepower). Passed about 3 miles away from 4-5 o’clock p.m. Traveled 298 miles today.

Kronprinze Wilhelm was the 2nd four-funnel liner built for NDL by the Vulkan Yard. She was commissioned in 1901 and was a slight improvement over her sister. Overall length was slightly longer at 663 ft, but with the same beam and burden. When war broke out, she was also turned into an armed merchant, and was very successful in this role, only surrendering in April 1915 after an 8 month cruise. Interned in the USA, she was taken into service as a troopship under the name USS Von Steuben when America entered the war. In 1920 she was laid up and her career finally came to an end in 1923 when she was scrapped after being deemed too battered for further service.

Sunday, March 29:

London time 1.15 p.m.; Ocean time 11.30 a.m.; U.S. time 8.15.

Had a good night’s rest, ship rocked, awoke at 7 a.m., bath, walk on deck, good breakfast. Church service at 10.30 a.m.- Church of England- led by the Ship’s physician- rained early, but soon the sun was shining and we enjoyed the deck. Good lunch and a big dinner 6.30 p.m.

Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse was the first 4-funnel liner built for Norddeutscher Lloyd (NDL) by the Vulkan Yard of Stettin. Her keel was laid in 1896, and she was launched on 3 May 1897. Overall length was 648 ft with a beam of 66 ft and a burden of 14,349 tons. Propulsion was provided by 4 cylinder triple expansion engines driving 2 propellers. She was briefly the faster liner in the world, and remained in service until the outbreak of WW1 when she was requisitioned by the German navy and outfitted as an armed merchant cruiser. She performed as such until the 26th of August 1914 when she was scuttled in an engagement with HMS Highflyer off the Ouro River in West Africa.

They have been giving us good boarding- the “Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse” ship of the North German-Loyd Line, passed 4.30 p.m. from Bremen, Germany to New York (28,000 horsepower) among the largest vessels that cross the ocean- it was in sight about a half hour, a beautiful sight- second vessel I saw at sea- we traveled 294 miles today. Little cool on deck this afternoon- 2400 miles have been passed in our trip, and I have been enjoying it- Dr. Stall is a very pleasant companion.

Monday, March 30:

SS Mesaba, 10.30 a.m. U.S. 6.45 a.m., London time 11.45. Another good night’s rest, bath, walk, good breakfast, sighted two vessels this morning, am well and enjoying my passage- the boarding good, cool on deck in our chairs, but nice walking on deck- we are losing time- poor coal- and will not get into London on time. Boarding still good.

“Mesaba” Tuesday, March 31:

Ship Time 10 a.m., London 10.45 U.S. time 5:45 a.m. From the time I left our chat with Mr. Wm Griffith the 2nd Steward or Purser, and went to bed, until day light this morning, I slept soundly and when called, took my bath, exercise, cup cambric tea, walk on deck and ready for our good breakfast, which we enjoyed- the a.m. spent in mapping our trip, reading our London guide, etc.

We have just seen the light off Scilly Island, and tomorrow will see land most of the time, going up the Channel. Have spent the day writing letters, reading the guide and walking the deck as I did not spend much time in my deck chair, it was too cool. Enjoyed my meals. Vessels passing- but have not seen any big fish, whales, etc.

April 1:

Wednesday, 10 a.m. SS Mesaba

London 10.15 a.m., U.S. 5.15 a.m.

I am well- enjoyed a good night’s rest, bath, breakfast, etc When we saw the Light House off Scilly Islands last night. We were 398 miles from Tilbury. It is foggy and raining a little this morning- can’t see much, going up the Channel- this is April Fool Day, and we had fun at the breakfast table.

We are a day late going into London- poor coal- Wednesday eve- we are ending our trip, as we began it. “In the fog.” It has been foggy all day, could not see far ahead, and when we passed a Light House and the horns blew we could not see the handsome 80 ft. high

White chalk cliffs on the English side near Dover- about every five minutes the ship’s whistle blew this afternoon, and being on the lookout run very slowly- I would not like to be the man who is up in the “crow’s nest” in the rigging, looking out for danger, exposed to all kinds of weather- over 3000 miles past- traveled- our dinner this evening 6.30 was very good and on the back of the bill of fare was the “log,” giving us as the memorandum of the number of miles raveled and each days since leaving New York 11 days ago- I am so disappointed about the weather, can’t see ahead, owing to the fog and it is damp to be on deck sitting in your chair, must be walking all the time to be comfortable.

Weds. night, 10 p.m. Have just finished packing my grip and gave Dr. Stall part of my clothes to leave in London- Dr. S. has just been out on deck and says the Pilot will be on the ship at 11 p.m.

Thursday a.m. April 2, 1903:

All is excitement, getting ready to leave. Breakfast at 7.30, which we enjoyed- Here we are at Tilbury- Customs House officers to examine our baggage- Everything right- no tobacco, cigars, etc- commencing to rain- Train to London- terra cotta pipes on top of the chimneys- on the houses- here we are in London!

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